Celebrating “OG” Sake – It’s Time For You To Revisit Hakuro Suishu From Yamagata
Hey! What about those sakes at True Sake that people don’t know about? They just read a review, but have no idea about the “back story,” especially if it’s awesome and very historical. So many sake drinkers enter the “sake market” at different times. As such, when the new or newish sake fans enter the market, social media dictates that they drink what’s new and hip, which is cool, but they are missing out on some very relevant and tasty “OG” sakes that are the bomb and should not be missed.
One such “OG” or “Old School,” or “Old Guard” brew is the legendary sake from Yamagata Prefecture’s Takenotsuyu sake brewery. You know the brand “Hakuro Suishu,” and many of you know the President (Shacho) of the brewery in the form of the incredibly passionate Masao Aisawa of SAKE DAY fame. In fact, Masao won our “International Sake Soul of the Year” Award at the 20th Anniversary of SAKE Day, which is incredibly poignant as he and the sake that he created, “Hakuro Suishu,” exemplifies the essence of SAKE DAY and all of those “OG” brews that have a huge history on the international sake market.
I am honored to write about this brew as our first effort to start a section that gives a shout out to a sake or sake brand that has done its time in the international market. It has made a legendary impact so that new sake drinkers can actually take a look and hopefully a chance, on a sake that has had such an influential impact on not only True Sake, but the entire history of exporting sake from Japan to the west.
Hey Masao Aisawa, tell us a little about the Junmai Daiginjo called Takenotsuyu “Hakuro Suishu” that has made Yamagata Prefecture proud:
“In 1992, Yamagata Prefecture began experimental cultivation of sake-brewing rice in the paddy fields of Takenotsuyu Sakagura's Katsumi Motoki.
The first Junmai Daiginjo sake I ever made using this rice was incredibly delicious.
Exports to the United States began in 1995. President Noritoshi Kanai (MUTUAL TRADING COMPANY) referred to our Junmai Ginjo Dewasansan "Junmai Takenotsuyu" as the first of Jizake.
From 2001 to 2010, Dewasansan Junmai Daiginjo and Daiginjo achieved the No. 1 record for consecutive gold medal wins in the first section of the All Japan New Sake Appraisal Competition.
In 2003, Yamagata Prefecture achieved the No. 1 ranking in the number of sake breweries that won gold medals using its main rice variety, Yamada Nishiki.
Amidst all this, Hakuro Suishu achieved a gold medal with the lowest glucose concentration in the country. It was a moment that confirmed the existence of sake whose main appeal lies not in sweetness, but in umami.
Metabolome analysis conducted at Tsuruoka's (Yamagata) unique scientific facility revealed that Shiratsuyu Suishu clearly produces a strong amount of umami amino acids, alanine and glutamic acid.
A truly local sake. The quality of Hakuro Suishu is a testament to the fact that everything—rice, water, kurabito, and even the gods—is locally sourced.
In 2009, we were awarded the highest honor, the Trophy, in the Junmai Daiginjo category at the IWC (International Wine Challenge).
When you enjoy oysters, sea urchin, foie gras, caviar, escargot, Chateaubriand, and cheddar, gouda, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses with fresh vegetables and herbs, a wonderful sauce is created all over your tongue.
The indescribable satisfaction and emotional impact of this drink, along with the title's promise, are the reasons why we continue to produce it.”
How is it made? – “Isshoumori Koujibuta Method”
Why did you make it? - “I wanted to share Dewasansan (rice varietal) 39's unique and exquisite flavor and aroma with the world”.
What does the name mean? – “The poet's heart, feeling good with drinking” – “This is a line composed by a poet while enjoying sake under the moon by a lake.”
What do you personally like about it? – “First bite is best.”
How many countries is Hakuro Suishu available? – “17 countries”
Where in Japan is it sold the most? “Ohmatsuya @ Ginza Tokyo, second most
Soba Kappoh FUJI @Toyonaka Ohsaka, and third most Tsuru to Kame @ Tsuruoka Yamagata”
And there you have it! A true “OG” sake that is legendary, super delicious, and a must try for those who have never seen this brewery or sake pop up in their feed! It’s also a reminder to those who know Hakuro Suishu that this is a Junmai Daiginjo with Dewasansan milled to 39% at that price point! Are you kidding? Nope!